Gas tank repair

motherputter · #1 (**permalink**) 03-06-2009

Well back to old school ways , hammers and anything that fits in the tank and go for it! just about there next pictures will be some bondo play!

GAS TANK REPAIR/REFURBISH | Roxio PhotoShow

jerseymutt · #2 (**permalink**) 03-07-2009

Some questions after watching the show cause anything I take a hammer to that's made of metal is going to the scrap pile - usually but I have an old Sporty tank I wouldn't mind practicing on. I see rebar clamped in the vise and sticking into the tank, is there somethng welded to it that is used like an anvil inside? Also in one of your posts you mentioned hitting the outside rim of the dent. Is that the technique that pops the dent out - the two in conjunction?

How about heat?

Mutt

kgdb · #3 (**permalink**) 03-07-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerseymutt

Some questions after watching the show cause anything I take a hammer to that's made of metal is going to the scrap pile - usually but I have an old Sporty tank I wouldn't mind practicing on. I see rebar clamped in the vise and sticking into the tank, is there somethng welded to it that is used like an anvil inside? Also in one of your posts you mentioned hitting the outside rim of the dent. Is that the technique that pops the dent out - the two in conjunction?

How about heat?

Mutt

The rebar is acting as a dolly of sorts, there may or may not be a bigger end on it. He probably chose that as dents in tanks are very hard to get at. Also he wouldn't be hammering directly on the rebar/dolly but using a off dolly method. The rebar or dolly would be applying pressure to the center of the dent area but the hammering technique would be to the outer area or ridges of the dent to gently lift the dented / low area.

motherputter · #4 (**permalink**) 03-07-2009

thats what i call hammer off , dont ask me why it just sounds hi tech. but thats exactly right the rebar was used to reach in but what i found laying around that worked even better was the poker from my old fire place set. it had a round ball on end of handle brass even better and round so fewer dings , and put my hand flat and tap around till i find where it is the put it on the lowest part of dent which would be the highest level of the dent on the inside of tank , then try not to move it but apply pressure as much as u can with out losing the spot ur at. and like kev said use lite taps with a body and fender hammer if u got one if not u can use a mini slege or any hammer exceipt a frammer that has the waffle edge, lol but the flater the better , thats why i use a stiff puddy knife inbetween the hammer head and the tank , then when u hit it spreads the impact in a flat area rather then dinging up the surrounding area of the dent ur working on.. less to fill even after i put bondo on and start to shape the tank u always have littile high spots that can be worked in the same manner takes a little time but u can tell by the sound of the hammering when ur on the dolly or not. also im a firm beliver in hand sanding and the feeling of the area ur working on with ur hand and not your eyes u will get a flatter , smoother and in the end a finish that will make u proud. next i will be using a primer filler , that i use and it will fill any scraches or areas that may need a some building up .

also i dont use the heat at all im not that good some pros may use heat to srink or pop but its real easy to worp the metal and youll never get it to be the shape it once was .... i have used heat on ocassion when doing a lead type of seaming.

motherputter · #5 (**permalink**) 03-07-2009

still a long way from being done , but i like to cover all bear metal after sanding so no moisture forms now lil more filler and a lot more sanding and very little more hammering. but im done for the day!

jerseymutt · #6 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009

Nice work area, I'm taking a guess here but I'll bet your single. If you not your wife is a very patient women.

Thanks for the discriptions on your work, like I said I have an old Sporty tank from my last wreck that I can practice on. Sporty tanks are cheap at the swap meets but it would be fun to be able to brind this one back to life. Maybe hang it on the wall of the computer room.

Mutt

motherputter · #7 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerseymutt

Nice work area, I'm taking a guess here but I'll bet your single. If you not your wife is a very patient women.

Thanks for the discriptions on your work, like I said I have an old Sporty tank from my last wreck that I can practice on. Sporty tanks are cheap at the swap meets but it would be fun to be able to brind this one back to life. Maybe hang it on the wall of the computer room.

Mutt

what makes you say that,,? O yes, i guess you could say ,I've been striking out lately. it has its purks , at times. but my heaters been working overtime. i think you should take a hammer and go for it its not bad to think green , i think your tank would want to hang on your wall, but then again you may have some hidden talant you didn't know about and slap that puppy on your bike again! happy pounding recyling is a good thing.

jerseymutt · #8 (**permalink**) 03-08-2009

I will be doing some tin knocking just to give it a try. I have a stash of Sporty tanks though that is growing every year. We have a lot of swap meets in the area and I love to go to them. I pick up older Sporty tanks for $10 and $20 and the newer three gallon tanks for $60 to $90. I only used to buy them if I or one of my buddies had a need. Lately though I don't seem to be able to resist them. I had one that I had no use for and bought two more the end of last year. They look cool hanging in the garage though, there like works of art.

Mutt

motherputter · #9 (**permalink**) 03-19-2009

all the banging is pertty much done as far as the tank goes i got some ruff edges to smooth out and have them marked out with a pencile so i dont have to feel around when i mix this 2nd and final thin coat of filler in a few spots that somtimes are hard to find when the filler is starting to setup. while i did some wet sanding to all the other areas that i can live with. its amazing how u cant see any of the spots that may need to be worked a wee bit more , till u let ur hands rub all over your work area , with your eyes closed . then you'll feel every dam one of them, but you have to have your eyes closed . i use this method on my body and fender work also, lol and another old school trick i use is let water cover large areas at atime and as water is applied the reflection is telling u what ur final paint will look like so you will see any imperfection that are there but only when the water is glasing over and down .thats also how i paint , i have the light coming from what ever is the best angle as to show my spray pattern hitting the work. and as soon as i see that gloss wetness bounce back at me i just keep it flowing and get a good full slightly heavy even coat on. that is only after i do a mist coat on and run a fast spray over all corners seams or edges first so when u do the full coat theres no runs or sags from trying to hit a hard to reach spot . im thinking of doing some fish net stockings streached to make a dragon or snake skin look from the top in green shads over a black or something like that and a copy of my tatoo on my forarm over the top of tank ...i better decide quick may go to my local auto body supply shop , and see what kind of spray can color rejects they have on hand.